Posts in On The Road Reports

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A Beer At…The Publican

May 15th, 2016 Posted by Bar Towel Radio, Feature, On The Road Reports 1 comment

The Bar Towel is proud to present a new series entitled “A Beer At…”, where we feature a single bar or restaurant, have a beer there and get a feel for what makes them special. Our first visit is to Chicago’s famed The Publican, a shrine to beer and pork in the city’s hot Fulton Market/West Loop area.

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The Publican’s European beer hall feel is unmistakeable.

The Publican in Chicago is a beer destination in every sense. It is grand, it is unique, and the beers are always interesting, delicious and selected with an evident sense of great care and appreciation. It’s a place where I make it a point to stop in for a beer every time I’m in Chicago, so it’s a fitting to be the first feature of our new “A Beer At…” series, where we visit special beer spots and find out what makes them great. And in this first feature we are also fortunate to have a live chat with Adam Vavrick, Beer Director of The Publican for a complementary Bar Towel Radio podcast.

Upon entering The Publican you know you’re somewhere different. It’s a large, open space with numerous large communal tables lining the floor and rows of grand, bulbous lights hanging from the ceiling, reminiscent of a European beer hall. You can’t help but notice the massive murals of pig artwork adorning the walls – they love their pork (and more) here and aren’t shy to feature this fine animal throughout.

The Publican can be a place of juxtaposition. Although meticulously designed and refined, there is a definite casual and fun air to the place, with classic cheese rock jams from Journey, Aerosmith and Bon Jovi emanating through the bar on an early evening on Saturday. It’s a place where fun and fine come together seamlessly.

Local food is important to The Publican, and across their menu highlights of pork, oysters, fish and cheese, farmers or location are identified to provide provenance. And local beer is also important, but a wider reach is featured on the beer menu. Within their twelve draught taps alone five states are featured from the U.S.A., alongside Germany, Austria, Belgium and the Netherlands. Breweries represented on tap at my visit included The Bruery, Stone, Left Hand, Half Acre, Allagash, Lindemans, Krombach, Andechs, Hirt and Koningshoeven. An extensive bottle list also includes the U.K., Japan, Canada and vintage offerings such at Aventinus, JW Lees and Orval. The beer list changes regularly, and every visit will provide a new experience when browsing the excellent menu.

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The delicious Lambic Doux, served in a clay pitcher.

Now we’re here to have a beer, and the beer we’re having is Lambic Doux. This is one of the most unique beers you’ll find in Chicago, as it is literally one-of-a-kind at the Publican. The Lambic Doux is The Publican’s house blend lambic that features a unique mix of added flavours in small batch quantities. Served in a clay pitcher, having the Lambic Doux is a delicious and special treat, almost a sensory teleportation taking you from the bustle of the city to the farm table of Belgium. At this visit the Lambic Doux was flavoured with blackberry, mint and lemongrass, an orangey-pink hued beer with a light head and a rich sourness, with the added flavours evident. It’s simply delicious and a beer I find time for during every Chicago visit – and so should you.

The Publican is a dynamite place for a beer, and luckily during my visit I was able to have a quick chat with Adam Vavrick, the newly hired Beer Director of The Publican, which we are happy to present as as Bar Towel Radio podcast here. The podcast complements this feature, as you’ll hear from Adam about his background, The Publican’s beer philosophy and other interesting tidbits about this wonderful place. Give a listen below, on our Podcasts page, or via iTunes:

 

The Publican is located at 837 W. Fulton Market in the Fulton Market / West Loop area of Chicago. Formerly an industrial and meatpacking district, this area has transformed in recent years to house some of the city’s most renowned restaurants and bars. Across N. Green Street facing The Publican is their offshoot Publican Quality Meats, a delicious casual spot with sandwiches, beer and meat and food to go. The Publican will also be opening a location at O’Hare Airport in the near future.  The Publican is open afternoons and evenings seven days a week, with daytime brunch on weekends.

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Our Philadelphia CBC Seminar Picks

May 3rd, 2016 Posted by Feature, On The Road Reports No Comment yet

The Bar Towel is proud to once again present our annual preview of the Craft Brewers Conference and BrewExpo America (CBC), taking place from May 3rd to 6th, 2016 at the Philadelphia Convention Center in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Part One of the preview covered our highlights of breweries, bars and other sights of the city, and Part Two covers our picks for the conference seminars.

The Craft Brewers Conference in Philadelphia is here, and now’s the time get ready to take away some juicy beer knowledge alongside the delicious beer itself.  With the massive growth of the CBC in the past number of years, it the conference is almost overwhelming nowadays, with non-stop panels, seminars, demonstrations, hospitality events, meetings and vendor showcases. So let’s break it down!

The core schedule format of the CBC is consistent from recent years past, with hosted seminars and sponsored demonstrations occurring throughout the day, and the BrewExpo America trade show running simultaneously, along with various other group meetings, hospitality suites and events taking place. (See Part One of our preview for a rundown of a bar scene in Philadelphia, with links to the dozens of events happening in the city.)

BrewExpo America, a massive brewing trade show with 800 vendors offering everything a prospective or current brewery, brewpub or bar owner could need, is once again running for three days during the conference, from 9am Wednesday until 12pm on Friday.

Outside of the trade show, the CBC is heavily focused on seminars, hosted panels, talks and presentations about a wide series of topics relevant to the brewing industry. As is in years past, the seminars are divided up into streams based upon their topics: brewery operations, brewpubs, export development, government affairs, packaging breweries, quality, safety, selling craft beer, start-ups, sustainability and technical brewing.

Now let’s talk about our picks. As in the past, our picks below represent the seminars that we find the most interesting in the context of today’s craft brewing world, with a Canadian skew. Lots of quality seminars overlap, so it’s challenging to see everything. But get yourself a beer and enjoy, there’s something for everyone in the industry at the CBC. (For some handy tools to plan out your schedule, see the CBC’s online planner, mobile app and pocket PDF guide.)

Wednesday, 9:15-10:30: Welcome keynote.  In recent years the CBC has welcomed keynote speakers from outside of brewing to provide unique perspectives on business.  Last year’s by Simon Sinek was very memorable and informative, as should this year’s, from baseball executive Billy Beane. There’s parallels that have been drawn between Billy’s story of success as a small fish in a big pond which should be very relevant to today’s brewing community.

Wednesday, 1:20-2:20: The future of craft depends on quality.  It’s fitting that the CBC seminars kick off with Dick Cantwell, a craft beer hero of sorts through his dissenting opinion against the sale of Elysian, the brewery he co-founded, to Anheuser-Busch in 2015.  Now a “quality ambassador” for the Brewers Association, it is always entertaining to hear Dick talk and this subject should continue to stoke the fires of our craft beer passion.

Wednesday, 2:40-3:40: Fruit refermentation in a production brewery.  Fruit beers have been and continue to be a hot, just as the Jester King brewery of Austin, Texas is.  Head brewer Garrett Crowell will be talking tips about how to best use fruit in what should be a juicy talk.

Wednesday, 2:40-3:40: Transitioning from nano to micro: a how-to.  Growth is something most breweries strive for, and this talk from Mike Hess, owner of the impressive San Diego brewery of the same name, should be an interesting perspective of getting big in a competitive landscape.

Thursday, 1:20-2:20: A reasonable approach to trademark enforcement. Lessons from craft brewers.  Managing a trademark in a sea of beer names can be a challenging and heated task, and this subject has been present for a few years now.  But there’s no easy solution, and will be tackled by representatives from Smuttynose, Rock Art and Old Ox.

Thursday, 1:20-2:20: The cost of opening a brewery: 3 perspectives.  It seems that there’s a new brewery opening up every week around here, but it’s not a cheap endeavour.  This chat features Jeremy Cowan of Shmaltz about how he transformed from contract to production, and Sean Lawson of the famed Lawson’s Finest Liquids, who recently announced a new brewery planned in his home state of Vermont.

Thursday, 2:40-3:40: The science, art and mystery of sour beer production. Sour beer can be delicious, but it’s not exactly a walk in the park to do it right and well.  In this talk representatives from Avery Brewing and New Belgium Brewing, two quality sour beer brewers from Colorado discuss their techniques.

Friday, 12:30-1:30: Hiring and brewer retention: A brewer’s perspective.  In a growing and competitive industry like craft beer, keeping your best talent will become an increasingly important business issue.  This all-star lineup will discuss their perspectives of hiring and holding onto good people, including Mitch Steele, brewmaster of Stone, alongside representatives from Victory, New Belgium and Karl Strauss.

Friday, 12:30-1:30: Sustainable design and build strategies for craft brewers.  Craft beer is expanding rapidly, so sustainability will be of increasing importance as the industry continues to grow.  Hear from the Founder and Brewmaster of Hopworks Urban Brewery of Portland, Christian Ettinger, plus the Sustainability Manager of Sierra Nevada at this panel.

Friday, 3:20-4:20: Spontaneous fermentation in a production brewery.  Making spontaneously fermented beers can be delightful and produce delicious results.  This panel features some of the most well-known brewers in this field, including Vinnie Curlizo of Russian River, Jason Perkins, Brewmaster of Allagash, and Jeremy Stuffings, Founder and Chase Healey, Brewmaster and Co-Founder of Jester King.

Friday, 3:20-4:20: The Return of the Gourdians.  The Gourdians, a semi-regularly featured collection of craft beer personalities are back once again to tell what is surely to be a sprawling and interesting range of beery tales.  This year the panel comprises of Stone Co-Founder Greg Koch, Canada’s own Steve Beauchesne of Beau’s and beer promoter Marty Jones.

The CBC seminars always cover a wide range of interesting and informative topics and this year is no exception.  If you are heading to Philadelphia, please reach out to us @bartowel and let us know what you’re up to at the conference. We’d love to hear about the experiences of the Canadian beer world in attendance this year!

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Craft Brewers Conference 2016 Preview: The Bars of Philadelphia

May 2nd, 2016 Posted by Feature, On The Road Reports 1 comment

The Bar Towel is proud to once again present our annual preview of the Craft Brewers Conference and BrewExpo America (CBC), taking place from May 3rd to 6th, 2016 at the Philadelphia Convention Center in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Part One of the preview covers our highlights of breweries, bars and other sights of the city, and Part Two covers our picks for the conference seminars.

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Philadelphia is a city of firsts.  I say that because there always seems to be a plaque wherever you turn in Philadelphia – be it for the America’s First Lager or America’s oldest street. However, it’s not always the first city that comes to mind when one thinks of top beer destinations in the United States.  Portland, San Diego, Denver and others often percolate to the top of ‘must-visit’ beer cities, but Philadelphia should be on that list, and due to that it is unsurprisingly the host city for this year’s Craft Brewers Conference, the largest conference of its kind in the world.

Philadelphia has been a beer city for centuries.  Beer is in the blood of Philadelphia, and a visit here will not only quench your thirst for delicious brew but give you a great history lesson and cultural experience to boot.

Getting to Philadelphia is relatively easy.  It’s location on the east coast is a short flight (about 90 minutes), and Philadelphia’s transit system SEPTA runs a train to the city centre for $8. Philadelphia is about 800km by drive to Philadelphia, making it about a similar distance to Chicago or New York.  The downtown area of Philly is easy to navigate and walking friendly. It’s laid out as a logical grid so finding things is very easy. Exploring Philly is fantastic – lots of little residential alleys to wander down and interesting old buildings to look at.  So it makes for a great city for a beer tour during CBC week.  

As with all CBCs, the host city is transformed during the week, with local beer bars and breweries hosting numerous special events to celebrate, and this year is no exception.  So let’s explore!

In the downtown area you will most likely hear one name more than anyone else: Monk’s Cafe.  Monk’s is likely Philly’s most well-known destination, a haven for Belgian food, beer and culture.  And there’s a reason Monk’s is so well known – it simply doesn’t disappoint. The space is comprised two areas – a front bar and back bar with varying tap selections in each section. There’s great food, friendly staff and excellent beer.  It’s an essential stop and will likely be even more perpetually jammed than it usually is during CBC week.

IMG_4416Other spots worth checking out downtown include McGillins Olde Ale House (the oldest pub in Philly, dating back to 1860), the Mexican themed craft beer bar Jose Pistola’s, brewpub Nodding Head, pin-up themed Varga Bar, the vast multi-tap bar City Tap House and the upscale chain Tria with the Tria Taproom, and two locations of the Tria Cafe (on Walnut St. and Spruce St.).  A wander around downtown wouldn’t be complete with a visit to the great Reading Terminal Market, a vast and delectable food market.  Have a bite at The Dutch Eating Place or a hoagie at Carmen’s.

It’s worth wandering down to the Old City and through historic Independence Park, home of the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall. It’s free to check out the bell so it’s worth poking your head in.  While in the area check out the fun, neighbhourhood spot Khyber Pass Pub, international themed Eulogy Belgian Tavern, the Ben Franklin-era period recreation yet sleepy City Tavern and brewpub 2nd Story Brewing.  Also, the aforementioned oldest street in America, Elfreth’s Alley, isn’t too far away.  If you’re willing to take your chances in getting an impossible table, I guarantee a visit to Zahav will delight your tastebuds. This renowned modern Israeli restaurant was one of the best meals I ever had at a recent visit.

IMG_4845The Italian Market on 9th Street is a dynamic and interesting street market, one of the oldest around.  Here you’ll find the duelling, gawdy and tasty Geno’s Steaks and Pat’s King of Steaks battling it out for Philly Cheesesteak supremacy.  Personally I like a sandwich from Paesano’s while in the market but you need to have a local cheesesteak for the full Philadelphia experience.  While in the area just a couple of blocks away is The Pub on Passyunk East, a nice pub with a good selection of American draughts, along with the craft and import focused Devil’s Den.  While in the area don’t miss the Philadelphia Magic Gardens, a truly one-of-a-kind immersive experience, a walk-in art environment by artist Isaiah Zagar that you won’t forget.

Back on the north side of downtown lies the Benjamin Franklin Parkway, a wide divided avenue that houses a row of dynamite museums, including the Barnes Foundation, a museum with not only one of the best collection of Impressionist artwork you’ll find, but one with an equally interesting and controversial history to match.  Continuing along the parkway will lead you to the Philadelphia Museum of Art, which you will likely recognize as the iconic steps from the film Rocky.  Jog up the stairs to work off some of those ales during CBC week.  While in the area, head along Fairmount and check out the brewpub Bar Hygge, or up to Brewerytown and have a stop in Crime and Punishment Brewing.

IMG_1543The Northern Liberties is a cool, no-longer-in-transition neighbourhood with lots of interesting things to check out.  On the beer front you can’t go wrong with craft beer stalwarts Yards Brewing, the awesome Standard Tap, the old school, rock and beer bar Johnny Brenda’s, the Philadelphia outpost of Brooklyn’s Fette Sau and nearby, the cozy and lively Memphis Taproom and Philadelphia Brewing Co.

If you’re willing to venture further afield, there’s even more beer to seek out and enjoy.  The adventurous beer seeking travellers might want to check out the delicious Earth Bread + Brewery in Mt. Airy, the fun, cask friendly Grey Lodge Pub in Northeast Philadelphia, one of Philly’s beer originals Dock Street in West Philadelphia, Manayunk Brewing in Manayunk, Tired Hands Brewing in Ardmore, Round Guys in Lansdale, Forest & Main in Ambler or the well-known and successful Victory Brewing Company in Downingtown.

If you are going to the CBC then you are most certainly a fan of beer.  And because of this, Philadelphia will not disappoint.  But Philadelphia is a city not just beer, but of urban adventures, friendly people, rich history and interesting sites.  You’ll find a pub to suit your tastes and it’ll have great beer for you.  Philadelphia is a bit of an overlooked destination compared to other beer cities in the U.S., but it’s a gem.  Enjoy the CBC and all the beer the city has to offer!

Stay tuned for Part Two of our CBC preview where we’ll offer our seminar picks for the conference.  In the meantime, stay on top of what’s happening in the city during CBC week with great events listings from Joe Sixpack, Brew Lounge and the CBC, plus great local resources Philly Tap Finder, Philly Mag’s Foobooz and Joe Sixpack.  Please find below a map with all of the bars, breweries and sights pinned, and more.

 

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Pints and Pistes in Ellicottville

April 30th, 2016 Posted by Feature, On The Road Reports No Comment yet

When one thinks of combining good skiing and good beer whilst living in Toronto, usually that means an arduous trip to venture to Quebec, Vermont, or further afield to the Rockies or beyond. But as learned this winter, we’ve got access to a great destination for both that’s only a couple hours outside of the GTA.

The view atop the Holiday Valley ski resort.

The view atop the Holiday Valley ski resort.

You might not realize that both good skiing and good beer can be found in the western side of New York state, in Ellicottville, located less than 250 kilometres from downtown Toronto. Ellicottville and the nearby Holiday Valley resort has the charm of a classic a ski town, a fun and diverse skiing experience and much excellent craft beer to keep one quite nicely imbibed during a visit.

Ellicottville is a town of under two thousand residents and is intrinsically linked to the Holiday Valley ski resort, located just a couple of minutes from the main street of town. But the town is a good place to start a beer exploration before venturing onto skiing. Downtown Ellicottville is a charming place, with a storefront lined main street of cafés, bars, ski gear outlets, trinket shops, antique stores and other interesting spots to poke your head into. The main drag of Washington Street is an easily walkable strip with lots of check out. But we’re here for the beer and there’s some great pints to be found in this picturesque village.

A good first stop on a beer tour of Ellicottville is the vast and impressive Ellicottville Brewing Company (EBC), founded in 1995 by Pete Kreinheder and Phin DeMink (who later founded Southern Tier himself). Located just off Washington on Monroe Street, entering the pub feels like walking into an old house front. One is immediately greeted by the original bar area, with an impressive long bar (evidently originally built for the 1893 World’s Fair) leading to the original brewery, still in operation in the back of the room which acts as EBC’s pilot system or regular on-tap brews.

The EBC restaurant is a good place to explore, as adjoining the bar is a recent expansion (nicknamed ‘Newtown’ as opposed to the original bar, ‘Oldtown’) that significantly grew the overall floor and table space. A unique feature of the layout is the presence of beer everywhere – there are stacks of six packs neatly lining the floors and shelves – all of which are available to-go. It’s a fun experience to explore the beer throughout the space than simply looking at a beer fridge (but they have one of those too in the gift shop).

Next to the newly expanded area lies the new brewery, which opened in 2013. The new brewery is an impressive section, with a private dining and event space leading to a platform and bar overlooking the new brewery. You can tell that this was designed for tours in mind, which occur throughout the weekends. During my visit a tour, which included an informative history of the brewery, interesting stories from the past and four samples at the brewery tasting bar.

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Vintage kegs still in operation at EBC.

EBC offers a diverse range of styles, including during my visit a pilsner, blueberry wheat, session IPA, nut brown, oatmeal stout, kolsch, India pale lager, hefeweizen with blood orange, an “ultra” pale ale, plus from their “Imperial Series” a strong IPA, chocolate cherry imperial stout and seasonals winter lager, and a hoppy winter ale. To top it off they also had a guest tap from Hamburg Brewing, an American double India pale ale. Although EBC’s Blueberry Wheat accounts for 50% of their volume, I was impressed with their commitment to a wide range of styles, and everything I had was well made.

EBC is an impressive place, a spot which I came back to multiple times during my visit. It would be a great destination anyway, but being in a ski town it only turbocharges the Ellicottville experience. Settle in at the bar, have a tour and stay for the beers. You won’t be disappointed.

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Charming architecture to be found in Ellicottville.

Nightlife in ski towns is usually known for being quite active, and Ellicottville is unsurprisingly no exception. In fact, it is more lively than some other ski towns I’ve visited in North America. Visitors and residents in Ellicottville definitely like to have fun.

One of the great spots on the main strip is The Gin Mill, a lively bar full of vintage paraphernalia, bar tchotchkes, groan-worthy signs and, interestingly, taxidermy. Upon walking in the front door the classic vibe of apres-ski bar is apparent, and they deliver. The room consists of a long bar down the right-hand side, with numerous tables and a back area with more tables and vintage video games.

The beer at the Gin Mill is top-notch. They’ve got a strong lineup of 25 taps, with craft highlights including locals EBC, Four Mile and Southern Tier, plus Great Lakes, Smuttynose, Abita, Bell’s and Heavy Seas. A fun and party-happy bar, on a particular Friday night during the evening the staff cleared out all of the tables in the main area and stored them outside on the sidewalk, to accommodate more patrons inside. Now that’s just a good way to keep the fun flowing.

Around the corner there is Balloons on Monroe Street, which feels like two bars in one. Featuring two entrances, one side during my visit had a retro cover band (belting out the cheesy “Van” favourites including Halen’s Panama and Morrison’s Brown Eyed Girl), whilst the other side was a bit more of a classic bar, with a dark interior adorned with decor of vintage automotive antiques and old beer ads. The beer selection was decent, featuring numerous options from EBC, Southern Tier and Brooklyn.

Also in town it’s worth checking out the Tops Market, which alongside EBC is a great place to pick up some packaged craft brews, Tips Up Café for a casual bite and brew in town, and Bike and Bean, a bike shop and late night burrito take away, all located on Washington.

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John Harvard’s Brewhouse, right at the base of Holiday Valley.

Holiday Valley, the ski area and resort located a few minutes from downtown Ellicottville, also has great beer slopeside. Located within the Tamarack Club hotel is a location of the John Harvard’s Brewhouse chain. The pub, located right at the bottom of the main lifts could not have a better location for apres-ski beers (however, they don’t have the ‘leave your ski boots on’ kind of vibe here). The room is bright and airy, with nice views of the slopes from the seating area. A large three-sided bar sits as the centrepiece of the room, with views of the taps and other beer drinking patrons.

Oftentimes good beer can be hard to find slope side at some resorts, due to relationships with large brewers. But this is certainly not the case here and the beer menu delivers at John Harvard’s. They had an excellent lineup including house beers Foxfire Amber, Tamarack Pale Ale and Winter Lager (there isn’t an onsite brewery at this location, but they are brewed at EBC) plus wide range of craft brews including Long Trail’s Limbo IPA (a personal apres-ski favourite) plus brews from Four Mile, EBC, Brooklyn, Magic Hat, Southern Tier and more.

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Take a break in Cindy’s Overlook at the top of Holiday Valley.

Now all this great beer is made even more delicious if preceded by a good day of skiing or snowboarding, and Holiday Valley delivers on that front.  With 1,400 acres, 58 trails and 750 feet of vertical, it is an wide and oftentimes surprisingly challenging ski area.  Personal favourite trails included Foxfire, Chute and Cindy’s Run.  Being able to slide down the hill right to the Tamarack at the base of the slope and into John Harvard’s made for an excellent ski experience.  Holiday Valley is usually ranked close to other Eastern resorts such as Tremblant, Stowe and Killington, a testament to the well-rounded experience that the town and the ski area has going for itself. Be sure to listen to the ever enthusiastic and lively Pete’s slope report at 716-699-2644 to start out your day.

When you’re in the Ellicottville area, there’s even more beer to check out.  Southern Tier, a brewery that Ontarians would know well as they’ve been available in the province for many years, is located 45 miles west in Lakewood.  Four Mile Brewing is about 30 miles southeast in Olean, and Hamburg Brewing can be a stop on the way home, which is about 30 miles north on the way to Buffalo.  And of course a stop in Buffalo itself is always worthwhile with its numerous excellent beer bars and breweries.

Ellicottville is a lively, interesting and walkable town with many bars, restaurants and shops to explore, plus some excellent skiing considering the generally modest contours in this part of the world. Ellicottville is located only 45 minutes south of Buffalo and easily accessible from the Greater Toronto Area which makes it an ideal destination compared to trekking to other ski destinations further afield.  Good beer, good skiing and both within a reasonable distance from Toronto? I’ll have one of those.

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A Visit to Detroit’s Cass Corridor

January 7th, 2016 Posted by Feature, On The Road Reports 1 comment

In the late summer we posted an article about the emerging Windsor beer scene, noting that a visit to the city can be amplified even further with a trip across the river to Detroit.  Luckily on that particular trip I was able to do just that, and wanted to relay some thoughts on this ever-interesting and rapidly-evolving destination.

Detroit is a city of rich culture, history and heritage, with a significant story to its past and where it’s headed. It’s a city whose reputation often precedes it, often unfairly so. It is certainly a city undergoing a transformation (Detroit refers to itself as “America’s great comeback story”), with many areas of downtown that are remarkably and noticeably changing for the better.  There’s a lot of exploration required to see the vast urban landscape of Detroit, but on a recent trip I only had a short amount of time there, and I wanted to recap some of the highlights here.

Crossing the border via the Detroit-Windsor Tunnel takes you from downtown Windsor to downtown Detroit on the other side of the river.  When traffic is light, it is a quite swift and unique experience to head underground in one city and emerge at another.  Winding the way through downtown, I headed a short distance up to my destination for the evening: the area referred to as Midtown Detroit.

DSC01776Midtown Detroit is an area roughly bounded from the I75 to the south and west, I94 to the north, and the John Lodge Freeway on the west.  The area encompasses many cultural landmarks of the city, including the Detroit Institute for the Arts, the Detroit Historical Museum, the Detroit Public Library, as well as Wayne State University.  It is a unique part of the city, with many remnants of the past present, alongside much progress, such as the M-1 Rail Line, currently under construction on Woodward Avenue to connect the area to downtown.  It is a diverse and interesting neighbourhood, with what is becoming a dense zone of awesome beer.

One of the main areas of the district is the Cass Corridor, an area around Cass Avenue, one of the major arteries of Midtown.  It is a street undergoing rapid change, like much of downtown Detroit, with the addition of shops and restaurants in what has been a historically less-than-savoury landscape.  But at Cass Avenue around West Canfield Street is very walkable block of beer that will certainly be drawing in thirsty patrons from far and wide.

DSC01668On West Canfield in between Cass and Woodward lies the brand-new Detroit location of Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales.  This attractive, high-ceilinged brewpub with wooden and industrial décor opened in April of 2015, bringing over 30 Jolly Pumpkin and North Peak beers on tap, as well as a bottled collection.  The beer lineup is drool-worthy to put it mildly, featuring such famous Jolly Pumpkin ales as Bam Biere and Bam Noire; Calabaza Blanca, Oro de Calabaza and Noel de Calabaza; La Parcela Pumpkin Ale, Tortuga Ale Co Chocolate Stout, Fuego del Otono Fall Saison and more.  Alongside Jolly’s ales include a wide variety from North Peak, including an IPA, Black IPA, Wheat IPA, Hefeweizen, Pilsner, and an offering from Grizzly Peak.  Alongside cocktails, infused spirits and wine, there really is something for all tastes at here.  A full food menu complements the beers, including numerous creative pizzas and sandwiches in this fun and friendly room.

Whereas Jolly Pumpkin represents the modern Midtown Detroit, the Traffic Jam and Snug, located virtually next door on Canfield, is a living remnant from another era.  Opened since 1965, the Traffic Jam is truly a one-of-a-kind place, but also reputedly Michigan’s first brewpub, having opened an on-site brewery in 1992.

DSC01659It’s a memorable spot with old-school décor, vintage memorabilia, stained glass and stag heads, a cross between a classic family restaurant, a cottage and hunting lodge.  With numerous rooms and floors, it’s a spot tailor made for exploration.  Sitting at the wrap-around bar one can try a decent range of interesting beers, and at my visit they included Midtown Dubbel, Mexicantown Maibock, Delray Dunkel, Golden Galaxy IPA and Czar’s Breakfast Stout. If you’re hungry for a quick snack, not only is there a full menu but a takeaway shelf of in-house made baked goods.  This is a hipster-free, homey and legit authentic experience.

Across the street from the Traffic Jam also lies another venerable Midtown institution, Motor City Brewing Works.  Open since 1994, Motor City is an intimate and cozy brewpub with a solid house beer lineup that included a Pale Ale, IPA, Nut Brown, Honey Porter, Summer Wheat, Tripel and Amber Lager.  Motor City has a friendly feel around the circular bar surrounding the taps, and a unique mosaic tiled decor to admire over a pint.

DSC01605At the corner of Canfield and Woodward is the Detroit location of HopCat, a mini-empire of beer bars with locations in Grand Rapids, Ann Arbor and recently having expanded outside of Michigan.  Each HopCat has a staggering amount of beer available, and this location is no exception, with upwards of 130 taps on offer.  Of them, the “Local 30” cover local and Michigan area breweries, including Founder’s, Bells, Perrin, Frankenmuth, Vivant, Dark Horse, Short’s, Kuhnhenn and more.

The rest of the massive list is broken out stylistically, including Ales, Wheats, Pales & IPAs, Ambers & Browns, Porters & Stouts, Strong Ales, Scotch Ales and Barleywines, Belgian, Ciders & Meads and Miscellaneous.  It would be hard to not find something you like at a place like this.  The general atmosphere and mood at the time of my visit (late at night on a Friday) was decidedly quite party-like, which to me didn’t lend itself well to settling in to sample some of the delicious treats available.  Hopefully outside of late night the HopCat here maintains a bit more of the casual vibe that makes their Grand Rapids location so memorable.

Just a couple of blocks down Cass Avenue lies Slows To Go, a quick service offshoot of the famed Slows BBQ.  Unlike the original Slows which features a full beer lineup, Slows To Go is primarily a take-out or quick sit-down option.  However, the BBQ is dynamite and worth a stop for some grub if you can’t make it over to the main location (which is in Corktown a couple of miles away on Michigan Avenue).

DSC01719Also worth some stops if you’re wandering around the area include a Whole Foods Market, located at Mack and Woodward for an always-reliable bottle shop that the chain is known for. Back around Canfield the Green Alley is worth a walk down, a unique converted green space behind the Motor City Brewing Works off of 2nd Avenue.  And anchoring the retail landscape conversion along Canfield lies the flagship store of Shinola, along with the newly opened outpost of Jack White’s Third Man Records to do some stylish shopping while enjoying some of the finest brews Detroit has to offer.

Visiting the Cass Corridor is only a small taste of Detroit’s beer scene.  The city and surrounding areas have even more bars, breweries and sights to explore, but that will have to be saved for the next visit to this intriguing and exciting city.

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The Accelerating Beer Scene of Windsor

September 8th, 2015 Posted by Feature, On The Road Reports 5 comments

Things are changing in Windsor. At least it feels that way, because I’ve actually never visited the city before. From a beer perspective, there wasn’t much to draw me there in the past. The craft beer scene began and ended with the old Walkerville brewery from the early and mid 2000s, whose beers were fairly bland and uninteresting. The brewery declared bankruptcy in 2007, and it did not seem missed. That’s pretty much Windsor’s history in the craft beer movement, at least what I could tell.

The beer scene started to change a couple of years ago with news of the rebirth of Walkerville Brewery, the debut of a craft beer festival and some chatter in The Bar Towel’s Forum. But Windsor remained off my radar. It was most welcome, however, to be contacted by Ontario’s Southwest to visit Windsor to check out the beer scene there. This was a city I knew all my life and is literally just down the highway from my home in Toronto, but almost completely foreign.  This would be a most interesting visit to see if my perceptions of Windsor had changed.

My visit would comprise of a “Bikes and Beers” cycling tour, a monthly event hosted by WindsorEats, a local food and drink website and consultancy covering Windsor and Essex County. Due to timing, Adriano from WindsorEats generously offered to give me a private tour of the city. We met on a bright and sunny Saturday afternoon in Willistead Park, a picturesque park located in the city’s Walkerville neighbourhood (which is the host location for Windsor’s upcoming beer festival in October, also run by WindsorEats).

DSC01801Our first stop was within the same neighbourhood, riding past some attractive historic homes to the Walkerville Brewery, located just off Wyandotte Street East on Argyle Road. The building is immediately striking, a vast wall of red brick facing you upon approach. The history of the location is an incredibly interesting one, as it was one of the original rack warehouses of the Hiram Walker Distillery, of which others remain in use across the street, and the distillery itself located only a few short blocks away.

The building gives the brewery an immediate uniqueness, as the high ceilings and expanse provides an almost hangar-like feeling. Within the main doors lies an open, airy taproom, with a long bar and numerous tables stretching to the back of the building. Within sight of the tasting room is the brewery itself, a spacious facility with numerous tanks and packaging lines. Within the brewery also lies a small barrel aging area, the only time I saw barrels in use in Windsor.

DSC01813Walkerville Brewery is, of course, named for the aforementioned Walkerville neighbourhood, in turn named for Hiram Walker himself. One cannot escape the history of Hiram here, and the residents are very proud of the history. He literally built the neighbourhood, as he owned 468 acres around the distillery and built many of the homes lived in by the distillery’s workers (although he himself actually lived across the river in Detroit). Adorning the walls of the brewery are numerous museum-like panels outlining the history of the neighbourhood, so a stop to the Walkerville Brewery provides not only a nice beer, but an interesting view into the past of Windsor.

Walkerville produces a wide range of beers – during my visit they had their flagship Honest Lager, Loophole Ale (a kolsch), an IPA, a Milk Stout and a Dunkel. A barrel-aged Scotch Ale was released shortly previously to my visit, with only a few bottles left in the to-go fridge.

Although retaining the same name, this incarnation of Walkerville has new ownership and a new outlook on beer from previous days. If your memories of Walkerville are only the original lager (as mine were), the new brewery is definitely worth investigating. This stop was my first indication that Windsorites have taste buds for the more interesting.

After finishing up at Walkerville, Adriano took us through the commercial area of the neighbourhood along Wyandotte. Biking past such storefronts as the metaphysical shop Smudge, old-school Tony’s Shoe Repair, vintage Harvey Lo’s Yummy House and modern restaurant The Willistead, the streetscape is authentically eclectic. Heading south of Wyandotte led us to Windsor’s Little Italy neighbourhood, to our second stop, Motor Burger on Erie Street East.

DSC01840Motor Burger is the kind of establishment that helps put a beer scene like Windsor’s on the map. Motor Burger is a brewery and restaurant, with Motor Craft Ales being their beer brand. Motor Burger has a familiar urban restaurant layout, with a long bar down the left hand side of the space, with tables lining the floor leading back to the kitchen.  As the name implies, the restaurant features an automotive theme throughout its decor and menu quite prominently.

The brewery is located in the basement, which I can only describe as Buffalo Bill-esque. A vast, multi-roomed and seemingly endless space took us to the brewery, which remarkably is all brewed on a single Brew Magic system. On the system all the Motor Craft Ales are brewed, and it was heartening to see so many unique styles on offer. They included a wide range of styles including lager and cream ale, bitter and IPA, amber (Motor A, their first beer) and brown ale and more. A couple of interesting recipes were on offer during my visit, including the refreshing Deja Blue with blueberries and lavender, and the balanced Jalopy with smoked malt and jalapeno. The food at Motor Burger is also top-notch, as their burgers have been recognized across the editorial spectrum including Reader’s Digest and Thrillist. Dig the nachos too.

Alas, one beer I was quite keen to try was the recent collaboration between Motor Craft and Batch Brewing of Detroit, which sold out prior to my arrival. Again, evidence that unique beers are popular here as elsewhere. Keep it up Motor Burger, and save me a pint for next time.

DSC01843Continuing on led towards and along Windsor’s pretty waterfront, where uninterrupted public green space spans the entirety of the downtown core. It’s from this location that the unique Detroit skyline is in full view. At this point in the tour it really hit how remarkably close the two cities are.  Being separated by only about a half a mile of river, the two cities are genuinely and intrinsically linked, both socially and professionally.

Due to Ontario’s lower drinking age and the presence of the Caesar’s casino on the Windsor side, many folks from Detroit regularly make the trip over for fun. And with Detroit’s major attractions (pro sports teams, concerts, etc.), Windsorites also do the same. It would be amiss not to say that a beer trip to Windsor is enriched with a trip across the border to experience Detroit’s dynamic scene. In fact, it truly makes a visit to Windsor even more compelling and attractive. However, we’ll save Detroit for another time. For now, let’s continue on the Windsor journey.

DSC01853Heading up from the riverfront, Adriano took us to Craft Heads Brewing, located right in the heart of downtown on University Avenue West. Formerly a blues bar, Craft Heads opened within the last year in a basement location sunken below street level but with windows above ground. A large open space holds numerous tables, and the back bar encompasses a large tap wall with beers labeled “A” to “Z”.  Similar to Motor Burger, all of Craft Heads beers are brewed on a tiny system, again remarkable to maintain a line-up that purports to be 30 beers.

Due to the inherent capacity of such a small system, a few beers were unavailable on our visit, but the line-up included a diverse range of styles including a saison, coffee stout, honey brown, hefeweizen, blackberry blonde, rye beer, oatmeal brown and multiple porters. Great to see this kind of diversity in a beer line-up.

DSC01868While in downtown we decided to check out a new addition to the scene, the Blind Owl on Oullette, the main nightlife strip in Windsor’s core. The Blind Owl, opened only a few months ago, is a tiny, attractive bar, with unique decor and a focus on craft cocktails. The beer list is a broad one that includes numerous craft and mass-market selections. It’s not the kind of place my ‘big-city’ biases towards Windsor would have expected, as it’s a definitely a cool spot and a welcome respite from the raucous and unappealing party bars located down the street.  A must stop while in downtown, for sure.

DSC01881Continuing along University Avenue led us to Brew Windsor, located on the east portion of the street past the Caesar’s casino zone. Brew has a unique layout, as it’s literally in an old multi-level residential building, the brewery and taproom located on the ground floor. The ground floor is a lively and intimate space, with a small side open-air area. What was quite attractive about Brew was their upper terrace, a narrow patio with a “bi-skyline” view of both Detroit and Windsor. Brew is focusing on only a few core brands at this point in time, with an unfiltered lager and a stout available during my visit. Let’s hope they expand their style experimentation at this promising spot in town soon.

DSC01896We headed back along the riverfront, all the way past the Ambassador Bridge to one of Windsor’s oldest neighbourhoods, Sandwichtown. Here we stopped in at Rock Bottom (not affiliated with the U.S. brewpub chain), a multi-tap bar with 30 beers on draught available. Rock Bottom has a classic American pub feel, with wooden bars and tables, mass-market beer paraphernalia and broken peanut shells strewn across the floors. The tap line-up was interesting for Windsor, featuring Great Lakes, Amsterdam, Flying Monkeys, Stone, Muskoka, Central City and more, but I have to admit that coming from Toronto I am a bit spoiled. Because of that, I was hoping for more local beers in the line-up, with only Walkerville making an appearance. But as Windsor seems to be a market ripe to embrace unique craft beers, brewers from other parts of the province would be wise to make the effort to distribute their beers to Ontario’s Southwest. My suspicions is they would be gulped down quite quickly.

DSC01902We headed back along University Avenue towards downtown, making our final stop of the tour at the Windsor Beer Exchange.  Here live music is common, alongside foosball, pool and a selection of some vintage video games. A small but well-curated selection of ten Ontario draught beers were available, including Craft Heads, Bayside, Descendants, Maclean’s, Railway City and others. One thing that was very interesting about this spot was their “variable pricing” for beers, where pints were priced in real-time based upon each line’s popularity, or lack thereof.

And with that, our beer extravaganza of Windsor wrapped up. My guide Adriano is clearly a passionate Windsorite, and his enthusiasm for the region shows. And through his numerous initiatives to promote the area, he is sharing this passion everyday. I’d highly recommend you take a look at his tours for a great way to see the beer scene of the city. And as Windsor is incredibly flat, it makes for a very easy and low-effort ride to get around town.

DSC01919Windsor is a city where its beer scene is clearly emerging along the trend lines seen across Ontario. Featuring four local craft breweries now, and more on the way (Rock Bottom is building a brewery next to their bar, and there’s a sign up for a Midian Brewing on Wyandotte), the appetite for good beer is evident. There is quite a bit of style variation in the scene, and hopefully the local brewers continue to push themselves to experiment further. Windsor pleasantly surprised me, a city that isn’t just about OV anymore, where your dollar goes significantly further than in Toronto, has a delicious local style of pizza, a lively riverfront and friendly residents. It’s a ride down the highway I look forward to making again.

The Bar Towel thanks Ontario’s Southwest for its generous assistance with my Windsor beer excursion. If you are thinking about taking a trip yourself, there are numerous convenient accommodation options within the downtown core and surrounding area, and with reasonably priced cabs and a city transit system, it is easy to get around. For a chance to win your own trip to experience the region’s culinary delights, enter the Dream Foodie Escape contest here. For trip inspiration, visit oswculinary.com.

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Frothing for Homebrew in San Diego

June 6th, 2015 Posted by Feature, On The Road Reports No Comment yet

The Bar Towel is proud to present our annual preview of the American Homebrewers Association (AHA) National Homebrewers Conference, taking place from June 11th to 13th in San Diego, California. This article will cover highlights of the conference as well as recommended beer destinations in San Diego.

IMG_0660Following last year’s National Homebrewers Conference (NHC) in Grand Rapids, Michigan, this year it moves to the west coast and the incredible beer city of San Diego, California.  San Diego is a destination that needs no introduction when it comes to beer: it is a vast paradise for beer lovers, with breweries, taprooms, tasting bars, pubs and beer-focused restaurants generously sprinkled across the area’s coastal terrain.  As as the largest conference dedicated to amateur brewing in the world descends on the city, beer once again becomes the focal point of this wonderful city.

If you’ve never been: a warning first.  San Diego is a city that will make you want to move there.  Coming from the frigid depths of Canadian winters, San Diego enjoys a year-round daily average temperature of 21.4 degrees Celsius.  But it’s not just the weather that makes San Diego so enjoyable, or upwards of 100 regional craft breweries for that matter.  It’s simply just an idyllic place, where the residents are friendly, there’s always an interesting sight or neighbourhood to explore and a unique experience to take in.  It’s genuinely one of my favourite places in North America and it will certainly be the same for everyone attending the conference this year.

Now, on to the conference.  This year it is taking place at the Town and Country Resort & Convention Center, a vast, expansive property located in the Mission Valley area of San Diego, with numerous pools, golf, dining and accommodation options. The Craft Brewers Conference was held here in 2012, the final year before they moved to traditional convention centres due to its size.  But for a smaller conference like the NHC, the closeness and intimacy of the resort will allow attendees to easily to meet, mingle and drink with other homebrewers.

IMG_6768The Town and Country is located on a street called “Hotel Circle” for good reason: it is an area of the city where a cluster of hotels exist, with easy access to numerous shopping options (“Fashion Valley”, and others).  It’s also conveniently located about 15 minutes by car from the San Diego airport, itself being right in the middle of the city.  However, I’d encourage you to not stick to the conference property for your time in San Diego, as they’re so much to see and explore in the city.  But we’ll get to that soon.

The conference itself follows a similar structure to previous years: informative seminars throughout the day on various homebrewing topics and a parallel Homebrew Expo featuring exhibitors of brewing equipment and supplies.  During the Homebrew Expo there is also a Social Club, where attendees will always be able to enjoy a beer and mingle with other homebrewers.

One of the unique aspects of the NHC is the service of homebrew at the conference.  So throughout the conference there are different homebrew clubs from the U.S. serving up their beer alongside professionally-produced brews. It’s an obvious great way to try other homebrew from across the country.

The conference is underpinned by its seminars, informative talks, discussions and panels about a wide array of brewing topics including ingredients, process, recipes, styles, history, professional brewing and more.  The speakers include both professional brewers and homebrewers, along with other affiliated industry representatives.  There’s something for everyone, but if you’d like to narrow down some sessions for consideration, here are my picks for some worthy ones to stop in on:

  • Thursday, 9am: State of the Homebrew Industry.  Bart Watson, the chief economist from the Brewers Association always gives interesting talks based upon their brewing data collection and analysis. This will surely be an informative discussion to see how homebrew’s growth compares to the booming professional craft industry.
  • Thursday, 12:45pm and Friday, 12:45pm: A Contrast and Comparison of the Many Variations of India Pale Ale.  San Diego is inextricably linked to Stone Brewing when it comes to beer, so you can’t go wrong hearing from Stone’s brewmaster Mitch Steele about IPA.
  • Thursday, 12:45pm and Saturday, 10:15am: (Almost) Everything You Know About Brewing History Is Wrong. Homebrewer, author and consultant Randy Mosher will certainly provide an entertaining and informative talk about the history of beer styles at this seminar.
  • Thursday, 12:45pm and Friday, 12:45pm: Brewing with Coffee: Approaches & Techniques from Dry-Beaning to Home Roasting. Coffee and beer are a wonderful combination, and so too is this panel consisting of sour beer expert Michael Tonsmeire, Jacob McKean and Amy Krone of San Diego’s Modern Times brewery.
  • Thursday, 2pm: Brewing With Experimental Hops: A New Hop Variety Just For Homebrewers. Vinnie Cilurzo of the renowned Russian River brewery alongside Jason Perrault of the Hop Breeding Company and Karl Vanevenhoven of Yakima Chief-Hopunion will be debuting a new experimental hop bred with homebrewers in mind. Will be interesting see what homebrewers will do with this new hop.
  • Thursday, 4:30pm: Keynote. The keynote address, held at the end of the first day of the conference, is being given this year by Tomme Arthur, co-founder of Port Brewing and The Lost Abbey. Another famed San Diego brewery, it will be interesting to hear Tomme’s take on homebrewing and the industry today.
  • Friday, 9am: What a Proper Pairing Can Do for Your Beer. Imagine how great a multi-course beer dinner is, but with homebrew! Greg Brown from Long Beach, California’s awesome Beachwood alongside Adam Dulye of the BA and Sean Clark of Steamworks talk about food and homebrew pairings.
  • Friday, 12:45pm: Mead Panel. A quick shoutout for some CanCon in the session lineup, as Ryan Chaytor of the Cornwall Homebrew Club alongside four others discuss recipes, techniques and more for this fast-growing style of homebrew.
  • Friday, 3:15pm: Ménage à Myces: Blended Yeast Fermentation.  Yeast is a big deal in beer, and this talk is being given by Chris White, founder of White Labs.  Listen to his taken on blended yeasts and pay a visit to the White Labs tasting room in San Diego with 30+ beers brewed on site.
  • Saturday, 9am: Mastering the Art of Hop-Fu!.  Kelsey McNair has earned dozens of awards for his IPAs, and this seminar promises to reveal some of the secrets behind one of the most popular styles in brewing.
  • Saturday, 10:15am: Introduction to Experimentation.  Long-time homebrewers Denny Conn and Drew Beechum are sure to provide an entertaining perspective on the benefits of experimental brewing. Expect true homebrew in action at this seminar.
  • Saturday, 10:15am: Taking Funky Beers from Homebrew to Pro. Peter Perrecone moved from homebrewing to pro with North San Diego County’s Toolbox Brewing, focused on sour and Brett beers. This talk promises to bring the funk.
  • Saturday, 12:45pm: Hops: Grow and Enjoy Your Own. I know I’d love to use my backyard to grow hops, and although Toronto’s climate isn’t the same as San Diego’s, it is of course possible.  This talk by homebrewer Sean Gardinier will discuss tips on growing your own hops.
  • Saturday, 2pm: Blurring the Style Guidelines: Brewing Great, Mixed-Style Beers. Peter Zien, the owner of another famous local brewery, AleSmith, will give a talk about brewing beers that don’t fit into particular styles – always something important for brewers looking to push the barriers of creativity.

There are seminars and panels covering so many topics at the NHC, attendees will certainly come home knowing more than when they arrive.  I’d encourage you to stop in on as many as interest you and enjoy the passion and enthusiasm of the industry.

IMG_6708A delightful aspect to the National Homebrewers Conference are the numerous large-scale social events to meet other homebrewers.  There are events on each of the three nights of the conference: a Welcome Reception on Thursday, featuring Brewers Association breweries; the Club Night on Friday featuring AHA Member Clubs; and the Grand Banquet and Homebrew Competition Awards on Saturday.  The Club Night is especially memorable, as attendees and clubs get very creative with their presentation, appearance and dress.  That’s a bit of an understatement, as the Club Night really needs to be experienced to be understood what it’s all about.  With dozens of homebrew clubs from across the U.S. participating, it’s a definite highlight of the conference and always one of the more unique beer events out there.

As I mentioned earlier, I don’t recommend you stay exclusively on the resort property for the duration of the conference.  There will undoubtedly be many, many delicious professional and homebrewed beers available to try, but you owe it to yourself to take a bit of time to explore what San Diego has to offer.  You won’t be disappointed!

IMG_0671For an overview of some of the major breweries and bars in the greater San Diego area, take look at our preview of the Craft Brewers Conference from 2012.  The article covered some of the well-known breweries and bars including Stone, Lost Abbey, AleSmith, and more.  In the rest of this article we’ll focus on a few of the neighbourhoods of San Diego that are easily accessible from the conference property, instead of the breweries located further afield.  However, many of those are pinned at the map that can be found at the end of this feature if you’d like to venture out.

With so many new breweries constantly opening up in San Diego, it’s hard to keep track of them all.  But one thing you can be sure of in San Diego: you’re never too far away from great beer.  Let’s look at some of the interesting neighbourhoods to visit during the NHC to get a feel for San Diego’s local culture and beer.

SAN DIEGO TIP: The city is quite spread out, so it can sometimes be a bit challenging to get around, as San Diego lacks a comprehensive transit system as found in other major cities.  However, San Diego does have Uber and Car2Go, along with local taxis and a transit trolley to help get around. There is also a bike sharing network in certain neighbourhoods of town. Don’t drink and drive.

IMG_0174One of the densest areas for good beer is in the neighbourhood of North Park, along 30th Street.  Within the area you’ll find the San Diego outpost of the famed beer bar Toronado; the fun and lively Tiger! Tiger!; plus tasting rooms for Rip Current Brewing, Mike Hess Brewing, Modern Times and Thorn Street Brewery.  Heading west towards University Heights there is Small Bar (with two locations) and the 20 year-old beer bar Live Wire.  Nearby along Adams Ave. is the well-known Blind Lady Ale House, and heading down to South Park will lead you to the famed Hamilton’s Tavern.

The downtown area of San Diego has some great beer as well, including the stylish beer bar Neighborhood, brewpubs Half Door and Monkey Paw, an outpost of the Karl Strauss brewery family, a tasting room from Ballast Point and a location of the awesome burger joint Hodad’s.

A visit to San Diego wouldn’t be complete without checking out some of beautiful beaches along the city’s 70 miles of coastline.  Ocean Beach has been booming from a beer perspective recently, with a new taproom from Culture Brewing, the Australian-themed beer bar Raglan Public House, the beer and noodle house Bar 1502, and of course the wild and raucous outpost of the brewery and pizza family Pizza Port.  And of course, the original Hodad’s on Newport Ave.

IMG_6731Just on the other side of the bay, Mission Beach is heating up with craft beer, with brewpub Amplified Ale Works and the extensive beer bars Draft, the SD TapRoom, and Barrel Republic.

Other spots within the vicinity of the conference include the vast, remarkable San Diego expansion of the Stone Brewing World Bistro and Gardens at Liberty Station, brewery and taproom Modern Times, beer bar The Brew Project, and tasting room for Acoustic Ales.

SAN DIEGO TIP: As you’re at the conference you’re a member of the American Homebrewers Association, so don’t forget to check the AHA Member Deals for beer and merchandise offers around San Diego.

San Diego is full of great beer bars, breweries and tasting rooms, so be sure to take a sojourn from the conference to explore and enjoy.  Watch out for special events and tappings to occur during the conference week as breweries and bars show their appreciation for all the homebrewers in town.

It’s hard to go wrong in San Diego.  With great weather, beaches, sights, food and of course beer, there’s a lot to enjoy here.  It’s a wonderful host city for the NHC this year as San Diego is a place that truly celebrates and appreciates beer.  Have fun at the conference, and be sure to follow along on Twitter and join in on the San Diego conversation in our Discussion Forum.  We hope to see you at the NHC!

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Chicago’s Beer Scene is Flying High

June 1st, 2015 Posted by Feature, On The Road Reports No Comment yet

Recently I announced a new collaboration with Porter Escapes, to showcase some of the wonderful beer cities that you can visit through their network of destinations. My first trip was to one of the finest beer cities and overall great places to visit in North America: Chicago.  In this feature article I’ll recap the visit and highlight some of Chicago’s top destinations so you can also have a “beer escape” to this marvellous city.

DAY ONE – FRIDAY

Porter Escapes offers convenient packages which include a bundle of flight and hotel, so of course my first step was getting to Chicago.  Flying on a sunny Friday afternoon, the short flight to Chicago landed at Midway Airport, in the south side of the city.  Chicago is one of the most convenient cities in North America to arrive by plane, as Midway is connected to Chicago’s transit system, the CTA.  Hopping on the “L” at Midway on the Orange Line gets you downtown in about 30 minutes.  With Porter’s incredible location in Toronto, the entire trip from downtown to downtown is remarkably swift and convenient.

PRO CHICAGO TIP: The Chicago transit system uses re-loadable “Ventra” cards which you tap to use upon entry.  The cards hold their value over time, so when you leave Chicago, hold onto your Ventra card and reload it before you go again. This way you can avoid the lineups of visitors figuring things out at the Midway station.

DSC00373Heading downtown, I checked into my hotel, The James, located on E. Ontario St. in the River North area.  The James is right in the heart of the action, close to many great places downtown, and easy to access different CTA lines to get out to Chicago’s interesting neighbourhoods.  It’s a stylish boutique hotel which made for a convenient and comfortable home base for the weekend.

Opting to explore downtown later, I took the CTA Blue Line at Clark/Lake up to the fun neighbourhood of Wicker Park.  Exiting at the Damen stop places you at the epicentre of one of Chicago’s most bustling nightlife areas.  Something that’s unique about this particular area is the intersection of three major streets – North, Damen and Milwaukee – creating a mega-intersection of sorts.  It can be a bit daunting to navigate but it’s worth exploring, as there is great beer to be found in virtually every direction.

DSC00419The first stop was Xoco Wicker Park, part of the family of restaurants from world-famous chef Rick Bayless.  Xoco Wicker Park is the second location of Xoco, the first being right next door to the beloved Frontera Grill and Topolobampo located downtown (and highly recommended).  The Wicker Park location of Xoco on N. Milwaukee Ave. opened in August 2014 and has a bit more elbow room but the same excellent food and drink as fans have come to expect.  This was near the top of my list for the weekend not only for some delicious Mexican tortas, but a chance to try the just-released new beer from Rick Bayless’s forthcoming brewery La Guardia.  Cruz Blanca is a spicy and sharp biere de garde brewed with hominy, epazote, lime peel and coriander in collaboration with Perennial Artisan Ales of St. Louis.  It is a very promising start to what will certainly be a great new addition to the Bayless empire.  I am an unabashed fan (as are many) of the Rick Bayless family of restaurants, and the new Xoco Wicker Park is on my must-visit list in Chicago, and should be on yours too.

Moving along led me up N. Milwaukee to the Links Taproom, a lively bar with 35+ beers on draught and cask.  Using technology to their advantage, the beer menus are all on large digital screens throughout the bar, listing the details of each beer available, and most importantly how much of it is left in the keg.  And for those in the mood for a real beer party, Links even sells jeroboam sizes of selected beer!

DSC00467Crossing the intersection led me to Big Star, located just past the train tracks on N. Damen Ave.  Big Star is always in party mode.  It’s a raucous, expansive taqueria with a large front patio and wrap-around bar inside, with table and bar seating surrounding it.  There is usually always a wait for a table on a popular night, but you can regularly get into the bar area and just squeeze in.  Big Star’s speciality is tacos, and they are excellent.  Complementing their tacos is a small but regularly rotating tap lineup, usually featuring Three Floyds, Lagunitas and Firestone Walker, and a full bar with a focus on bourbon, tequila and cocktails.  If you’re in a rush there’s even a to-go taco window.  Big Star is a great visit to get a taste of Chicago’s nightlife – it’s always a rush in here.

Walking around the corner to W. North Ave. took me to Piece, a large and popular pizzeria and brewery.  Piece is just an all-around good place to get a beer and some delicious food.  They do something that you don’t really see in Toronto outside of chain pizzerias: they make “full size” pizzas.  Like, pizzas that take up the entire table.  And unlike the “Chicago style” pizza that is popular in the Loop area, Piece serves “New Haven style”, which is a thinner crust with a variety of sauce and topping options.  On the beer front, Piece produces a number of their own beers, usually including strong interpretations of German, American and Belgian styles.  Watch for special guest pizzas from time to time (earlier this year they did a collaboration pizza with Doug Sohn of Hot Doug’s), and the always fun-to-watch live band karaoke on Saturday nights.

DSC00518A final stop of the evening took me across W. North to Trenchermen, a unique bar and dining room built into a former Russian bath house from the 1920s.  A very unique and moody space, Trenchermen has a great beer lineup which included Surly, Three Floyds, Metropolitan, Half Acre and more.

While in the neighbourhood it’s also worth a trek to Division Street, a fun area located one train stop closer to downtown, or easily walkable.  Not visited on this trip but in the past I’ve quite enjoyed Bangers & Lace, focusing on interesting takes on hot dogs with beer, and Jerry’s Sandwiches, with a humongous menu of delicious sandwiches and beer.  Also very much worth a visit is the legendary Map Room, located on W. Armitage Ave.  One of Chicago’s oldest beer bars, the Map Room has an ever-changing beer lineup from the U.S. and abroad.

DAY TWO – SATURDAY

DSC00651Having done the whirlwind tour of Wicker Park, the second day was dedicated to enjoying even more beer across the city.  First up was right around the corner from the James: the Italian food emporium Eataly.

There’s really nothing like Eataly, a hybrid market, restaurant and retail experience with dozens themed areas representing various styles of food and drink.  It’s quite something to behold, and it’s definitely worth a stop while in Chicago.  Getting there early before the crowds arrive is advisable.  After snagging an absolutely delicious house-made sandwich, I checked out their brewery, a bright and airy space on the second floor.  Named the Birreria, beers here have been created in collaboration with Dogfish Head’s Sam Calagione, with a house saison, rye IPA and Berliner weisse on offer, but also with a wide range of tap and bottles from breweries such as Baladin, Del Borgo, Dogfish Head, Half Acre and Three Floyds.

DSC00682The next stop was the new taproom at Goose Island‘s production brewery, located on W. Fulton Ave.  The taproom, only having opened a couple of weeks ago, is a beautiful new showcase for Goose Island.  While there I was fortunate to receive an informative and fun behind-the-scenes tour of Goose by brewer Dave Tohtz.  Dave took me through a quick tour of the computer-controlled brewery, which was at that moment brewing what would become Bourbon County Stout.  After taking a quick peek at the pilot brewing room, bottling lines, aging rooms and the most impressive keg storage room, with kegs of Bourbon County as far as the eye could see, we drove out to Goose Island’s barrel aging warehouse.

I joked on Twitter that the Ark of the Covenant could be in here, as the size of the place instantly reminded me of the last scene of Raiders. The warehouse is massive, holding Goose Island’s incredible collection of barrels, numbering over 6,000.  Split into two areas for Bourbon County Stout and their wine barrel fruit series, the delicious anticipation of tasting what’s in the barrels hangs heavy in the air. Just another reason to come back to hopefully get a chance to enjoy the beer in these barrels.

DSC00736Public visits to the barrel warehouse are only possible during special events, but tours of the main brewery are available by signing up online. Also worth seeking out is Goose Island’s original location, the brewpub located on N. Clybourn Ave.  Their brewery is still operational at the pub, producing a number of unique beers exclusively available there.  (Give a listen to our past podcasts to learn more about Goose Island and their famed Bourbon County Stout.)

As luck would have it the weekend I was there is was also Chicago Craft Beer Week, the week-long celebration of beer which is common across North America.  The closing event was taking place while I was in town, so moving on from Goose Island took me up to  the Ravenswood/North Center neighbourhood to the Welles Park Craft Beer Festival.  It was a casual beerfest in the picturesque park, and a good opportunity to sample some beers from the ever-evolving local beer scene, with 70+ brewers involved.  But my mission this weekend was the beer destinations of the city that you could visit too, so I moved on.

DSC00786Just a block away from the park on N. Lincoln Ave. is the very popular Half Acre brewery and taproom.  Half Acre is one of the new wave of Chicago breweries, opening up on N. Lincoln ‘way back’ in 2009.  And their popularity is sky-high, as on this Saturday in the middle of the afternoon, there wasn’t a free seat to spare in the taproom.  A lively space with communal tables, the taproom features a number of beers from the lineup of Half Acre’s unique range of beers, including Daisy Cutter Pale Ale, Vallejo IPA, Space IPA, Rambis Oatmeal Stout and other specialities.  Right next door to the taproom is the brewery and gift shop, where beer-to-go is available for purchase.

There’s even more great beer in the neighbourhood around Half Acre.  If you’d like to spend some more time exploring, the broad area also has such worthwhile spots as the well-known Belgian-inspired HopLeaf, The Long Room, Fountainhead, The Bad Apple and Resi’s Bierstube.

DSC00824PRO CHICAGO TIP: Chicago’s transit network is one of the most comprehensive in North America, and makes for a great and affordable way to explore the different areas of the city. The Blue and Red lines, which connect many of the bars in this article, run 24 hours a day.

I headed south to the Lake View neighbourhood, with a stop at DryHop Brewers on N. Broadway St.  DryHop is one of the newer additions to the Chicago beer scene, just approaching its two-year anniversary.  They’ve got a bright, open space, with tables fronting the lively Broadway St. and a long bar inside, with beer tanks lining the back of the bar.  One of the more unique offerings I noticed at DryHop was a “can on demand” contraption, where staff would fill cans from the tap and would be sealed on the spot for takeaway.  A very promising spot with beers that included numerous collaborations with other local brewers, such as a Kiwi/Lemon Balm Berliner Weisse with Pipeworks and an Elderflower and Grape Must Saison with Illuminated Brew Works, and more.

DSC00854Walking along W. Belmont Ave. (with a quick stop at Osmium for a local Dark Matter coffee and a Chicago-style dog at Murphy’s Red Hots) led me to the Northdown Cafe and Taproom on N. Lincoln Ave.  The Northdown is a wonderful spot, with great beer, unique art ordaining the walls, retro movies playing above the bar and even some pinball to boot.  Home of the Chicago chapter of the Mikkeller Running Club, they have a small but well-curated tap list which included Maine Beer Co., Perennial, Lost Abbey, Three Floyds, Off Color and more, plus a vast lineup of bottles.  There’s a great neighbourhood feel here and an easy place to spend many hours sampling some delicious beer.

Other spots worth checking out in the area include the Green Lady, Sheffield’s, Delilah’s, Atlas Brewing, Beermiscuous and Kuma’s Too.  On the way back towards downtown is the famed Local Option, a bar that just about everyone into beer already knows about.  Located on W. Webster Ave. near DePaul University, Local Option is a metal-themed bar with a massive lineup of draught and bottles, including a number of their own house brews.  They frequently host special events and tappings, so be sure to check them out when planning a Chicago Beer Escape.

DSC00910The beer neighbourhood exploration continued, moving along to the lively nightlife area Logan Square.  First up was the booming Revolution Brewing Brewpub on N. Milwaukee Ave.  Revolution has been a tremendous success since their inception, having expanded from their original brewpub location to also include a full production brewery and taproom on Kedzie Ave.  The original brewpub is a great space, with many clever design details such as barrel stave walls and Revolution’s iconic fists built into the construction of the bar.  Over 15 of their house beers are available, ranging in styles from IPA, Porter, Wit, Pilsner and other unique concoctions.

Walking up Milwaukee led me past numerous hotspots, including the vast Emporium, Chicago’s contribution to the vintage arcade bar phenomenon.  There’s video games, pinball, pool tables, air hockey, craft beer and food trucks in here, truly a great spot to have some fun while enjoying a tasty beverage.  There’s also a second location of Emporium down in Wicker Park.

Continuing along Milwaukee and through Logan Square itself led to Longman & Eagle on Kedzie.  This renowned restaurant and bar is candlelight dark on a Saturday night, but still bustling with patrons both at the bar and the dining room.  Featuring a huge spirits lineup with a particular focus on whiskey, they have a strong draught lineup which included Founders, Pipeworks, Off Color, Solemn Oath and more.

DSC00951The night finished with one last stop, and one of the most unique places on the trip so far.  Wandering right into the residential neighbourhood of Logan Square on Albany Ave. led me to SmallBar.  This place is tucked into the neighbourhood itself, surrounded by residential buildings on all sides.  But inside is anything but sleepy late at night, with a friendly crowd and great beer lineup, including offerings from Prairie, Revolution, Pig Minds, IBW, Metropolitan and more.  It was a fitting stop for one last pint to reflect on a fantastic day of beer exploring.

DAY THREE – SUNDAY

The final day of the Chicago Beer Escape began with a short break from beer for a little sightseeing.  Chicago has some amazing attractions and one of the best ways to see many of them is using a Go Card Chicago.  I’m not one to dwell at museums or other sights – I like to go in, check things out and move on.  Ferris Bueller’s Day Off style.  And this card is perfect for that, as dozens of attractions in Chicago are included, many allowing you to bypass the regular ticket lineups so you can get in very quickly.

PRO CHICAGO TIP: Chicago has a vast urban bike-sharing network, Divvy.  Day passes are available for $7, and is a great way to get around downtown (and beyond) for sightseeing.  It’s often a much faster way to zip around town than on foot or via the CTA to hit up numerous sights rapidly.

DSC00986Being on a countdown clock to returning home, I jetted over to the Magnificent Mile (N. Michigan Ave.) being only a few blocks from the James and up to the top of 360 Chicago, commonly known as the observatory at the John Hancock Tower.  Located 94 stories up, it makes for a great view of the city and lakefront.  Also worth it (and also part of the Go Card Chicago) is the complementary views from the top of the Willis Tower (formerly known as the Sears Tower).

Just around the corner was a quick stop at the Museum of Contemporary Art, and then down into the Loop to the vast, world-class Art Institute of Chicago, one of the best museums you’ll find anywhere.  It feels like at every turn while exploring the Art Institute leads to an iconic piece.  Some personal favourites of mine include the huge Impressionist and American art galleries, the architecture collection, plus Chagall’s America Windows and the Chicago Stock Exchange Trading Room (always a good spot to escape the crowds too).  You truly cannot go wrong at the Art Institute.

DSC00545PRO CHICAGO TIP: When sightseeing in Chicago, you’ll regularly cross the many bridges of the city providing some awesome views.  Be sure to check out the Kinzie Street bridge, one of my personal favourite bridge views and immortalized in film in the “Top 5 things I miss about Laura” scene from High Fidelity.

Now this is a Beer Escape after all, so after some great sightseeing it was time to wrap up the trip with one of Chicago’s most dynamic food and drink areas: the Fulton Market.  This longtime meatpacking district has in recent years been transformed with some of the most acclaimed bars and restaurants in the city, and the density of spots made it for a great place to finish the trip.

First up in the Fulton Market area was the Little Goat Diner on W. Randolph St.  This is the sister location to famed chef Stephanie Izard’s Girl and the Goat, located just across the street.  The Little Goat is a multi-faceted destination, with a sit-down diner, a bar, coffee shop and to-go bakery counter. It’s truly a fabulous spot that can accommodate thirst and hunger at any time of day.  On this particular Sunday they were hosting a rooftop patio party featuring Revolution Brewing, but at all other times the Little Goat has a well-thought through draught selection including the likes of Off Color, Begyle, 21st Amendment, Ballast Point and Half Acre.  You just can’t go wrong here.

DSC01163A couple of doors down is the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Lone Wolf Tavern.  A hotspot by night, the bar is quiet and relaxed on a Sunday afternoon, but with no shortage of great beer.  They are incredibly fortunate to have four permanent Three Floyds taps, making the Lone Wolf one of the top destinations to find the sought-after beers from the famed Munster, Indiana brewery.  On this afternoon they had Alpha King, Rabbid Rabbit, Black Heart, Lord Rear Admiral from Three Floyds plus other taps from Solemn Oath, Dark Horse and more.

Around the corner is Green Street Smoked Meats, a warm and rustic down-an-alley bar and counter with beer, cocktails and meats, reminiscent of Fette Sau in Brooklyn.  There’s a real warehouse feel here with a raw, rough brick interior and a classic rock soundtrack playing.  Brisket, pork, chicken and more are the specialties here, and are a tasty complement to a solid beer lineup of 16 taps including six from Local Option.

DSC01180Just a block away on Halstead St. is a brand-new location of Whole Foods Market, always a great go-to destination for beer shopping to take home.  On this particular trip I was able to find some Three Floyds here, which I easily packed into my bag for a beery souvenir of Chicago.  And if you can’t decide what to buy, you can sip on site at the Red Star Bar, the Whole Foods in-grocery bar with 24 beers on tap. Remarkable.

There’s much more to explore in the Fulton Market area – also worth checking out is the fine dining and beer restaurant Publican, its casual sister location Publican Quality Meats, along with brewpub Haymarket.  This is just another of many areas in Chicago that will keep you well fed and satiated.

And with that, the Chicago Beer Escape came to an end, with a quick ride back to Midway and swift flight back to Toronto.  Chicago is a wonderful city to explore, drink, eat, and make new friends.  It’s a city that likes to enjoy life, and you can tell with the bars and restaurants. They are almost always perpetually busy, yet one is always made to feel welcome and encouraged to join in on the fun.  My collaboration with Porter Escapes allowed me to fly, stay and do Chicago easily on a weekend, and you should consider taking your own Beer Escape there if you haven’t, or haven’t recently.  It’s simply delicious.

Please see refer to the map below as all the locations mentioned in this article are pinned.  And there’s always more popping up in Chicago, so be sure to follow the ongoing thread in our discussion forum to learn about the latest Beer Escapes to this fine city from our active craft beer community.

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The Bar Towel Escapes to Chicago for Great Beer

May 20th, 2015 Posted by Feature, On The Road Reports No Comment yet

logo_EN (1)The Bar Towel is thrilled to announce a new collaboration with Porter Escapes, all in the name of great beer!

It’s no secret that Porter Escapes is a fabulous way to enjoy some amazing destinations, and one thing you’ll be able to find at all of them is delicious craft beer.  So, The Bar Towel is going to bring you information, insights, reviews and profiles about the best craft beer spots at select Porter Escapes destinations.  With a Porter Escapes travel experience that includes flights and hotels, now you’ll be able to add a delicious beer itinerary to your upcoming trip!

Delicious house blend Lambic Doux at Chicago’s Publican Restaurant.

Delicious house blend Lambic Doux at Chicago’s Publican Restaurant.

First up in the wonderful city of Chicago.  Home to such famous beer havens such as Goose Island, Local Option, Half Acre, Piece, Map Room, The Publican and more, Chicago is a great destination for beer, food and culture.  And it just so happens that we are in the middle of the 6th annual Chicago Craft Beer Week, running until May 24th, with numerous beer-related celebrations and events occurring across the region.

Please (virtually) join us this weekend (May 22nd-May 24th) as we tour and highlight some of Chicago’s great craft beer destinations, events during Chicago Craft Beer Week, and other unique sights along the way. Follow along via our Twitter and Instagram feeds, and when we’re back we’ll recap all the spots in a feature article on The Bar Towel.

Cheers to a delicious “beer escape” to Chicago!