Thanks for the tips. I passed by Downeast Beverages, but it was at the end of my trip and my trunk was already full!
Allagash was a fun place. Sampled their white, dubbel, tripel and Belgian-style stout before the tour. Saw the barrel-aging room (filled with as yet unnamed but surely tasty treats) but unfortunately not the koelschip room where they open up the windows and open-ferment the beer. I saw a few barrels from this process aging in the barrel room.
Also in Portland, I went to the Great Lost Bear and Novare Res. GLB had a big selection of US taps, particularly local brews including many from Allagash. Tasty burgers as well. Unfortuately, the place is noisy and the waitress took my "hmmmm, let me think about what I'll have next" to mean I wanted the bill, so off we went.
Next stop was Novare Res, which was one of the coolest pub I've ever been too. Knowledgable staff and a cool crowd in basement of an old bank building. One of the bartenders let us poke around in the bottle storage room, which must have been an old bank vault. We went 3 nights in a row (!) and each night there were 5 or 6 new bears on the draught menu. Highlights included Meantime IPA, Rogue I2PA, and a bottle of Struise-Mikkeller
Their bottle selction was also fascinating with a great representation of different brewing regions.
Portland has good food, too. One of the quirkier places we went to was called Duckfat, where they fry their frites in....you guessed it. Just looking at the menu gave me congestive heart failure - not content with clogging up your arteries with their frites, they actually serve poutine.
Further up the Maine coast, we stopped at a place called Lion's Pride in Brunswick. This place has 35 solid taps, of which I guestimate half are Belgian. Any place where you can start with a Pannepot is ok with me. Also had a wonderfully sour Cuvee Des Jacobins and a 2003 SN Bigfoot Barleywine. (They had two vintages on tap - 2003 and 2007). Lion's Pride will soon become a brewpub and the brewer was behind trhe bar the first night In was there. Super nice guy who gave me a taste of some 2-year old Girardin (apparently he got it as a fluke) and directions to a lobster shack!
Went to lots of other great places too, but these were definitely the highlights. All in all, we had a great time in the Portland area. Highly recommended.