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We have a trivia question in order to register to prevent bots. If you have any issues with answering, contact us at cass@bartowel.com for help.
Introducing Light Mode! If you would like a Bar Towel social experience that isn't the traditional blue, you can now select Light Mode. Go to the User Control Panel and then Board Preferences, and select "Day Drinking" (Light Mode) from the My Board Style drop-down menu. You can always switch back to "Night Drinking" (Dark Mode). Enjoy!
First Lager, what should I brew?
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- Posts: 266
- Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2010 11:11 am
First Lager, what should I brew?
Ready to brew my first Lager.
Looking for something crisp, clean.. not too malty.
Looking for something crisp, clean.. not too malty.
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- Posts: 45
- Joined: Thu Mar 10, 2011 6:55 pm
- Location: Toronto
Brew a helles. If you mess up, you probably wouldn't notice it as much.elproducto wrote:Ready to brew my first Lager.
Looking for something crisp, clean.. not too malty.
- markaberrant
- Seasoned Drinker
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- Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 4:28 pm
- Location: Regina, SK
- markaberrant
- Seasoned Drinker
- Posts: 1664
- Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 4:28 pm
- Location: Regina, SK
Do you have the ability to ferment at 8-10C? And then lager at 0-4C?elproducto wrote:Ready to brew my first Lager.
You also need to make about a 2 gallon starter if using a single pack of fresh liquid lager yeast. I am not crazy about using dry lager yeast.
Good aeration is also important.
I ask because in my opinion these are necessities to being ready to brew a lager. ANY brewing flaw is noticable in a lager, so you need to have very sound processes.
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Yep.. I have a chest freezer, with a temp controller.markaberrant wrote:Do you have the ability to ferment at 8-10C? And then lager at 0-4C?elproducto wrote:Ready to brew my first Lager.
You also need to make about a 2 gallon starter if using a single pack of fresh liquid lager yeast. I am not crazy about using dry lager yeast.
Good aeration is also important.
I ask because in my opinion these are necessities to being ready to brew a lager. ANY brewing flaw is noticable in a lager, so you need to have very sound processes.
We used saaz and amarillo to dry-hop our Belgian IPA. I thought it turned out well.markaberrant wrote:have you ever used saaz as a dry hop?notdan wrote:If I were able to brew a lager, my first one would be a slightly stronger (~6 or 6.5%) dry-hopped czech pils. But I like saaz. A lot.
This year's isn't as good as previous ones, but anyone know what Christoffel Nobel uses in its dry-hopping?
- markaberrant
- Seasoned Drinker
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- Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 4:28 pm
- Location: Regina, SK
Good to know, we're still learning!markaberrant wrote:That is a different story than dry hopping a pils with saaz. There is a reason the germans and czechs don't do this.notdan wrote:We used saaz and amarillo to dry-hop our Belgian IPA. I thought it turned out well.
Is there a particular reason why pilsners shouldn't be dry-hopped? Or not with saaz in particular?
My idea was indeed inspired by Christoffel Nobel... I wonder what they dry-hopped with.
EDIT: Did a bit of googling at it seems you're right; it's rare that a pilsner is successfully dry-hopped, particularly with saaz. Good to learn this now. Taking this into consideration, my first lager will simply be a well-hopped moderately strong czech pils, sans the dry-hopping.
- markaberrant
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- Location: Regina, SK
True noble hops just don't make for good dry hops.
There are some excellent documents out there which go into great detail describing all of the different oils present in each hop variety and at what percentage. These oils all have their own unique characteristics. However, these oils will also break down into different compounds when exposed to heat, again with their own unique characteristics.
This is why you get completely different results when dry hopping versus kettle hopping. In the case of noble hops, the character is far more appealing when used in the kettle. In fact, most euro lager brewers make their last addition with 20-30 minutes remaining in the boil.
There are some excellent documents out there which go into great detail describing all of the different oils present in each hop variety and at what percentage. These oils all have their own unique characteristics. However, these oils will also break down into different compounds when exposed to heat, again with their own unique characteristics.
This is why you get completely different results when dry hopping versus kettle hopping. In the case of noble hops, the character is far more appealing when used in the kettle. In fact, most euro lager brewers make their last addition with 20-30 minutes remaining in the boil.